Regardless of whether you are starting with an existing lawn or planting grass, sowing is always a process that takes time and patience. The mixture of weed control and seeds is a very fine balance, in which one or the other is usually picked. This process can go different ways depending on the time of year when this process is to begin. It can also take several years for the expected results to be achieved.
Starting the process in the spring can be difficult. Spring is the season when weeds are most common and the best time to fight or prevent them. It must emerge in the spring before the soil temperatures reach a constant 55 degrees to prevent crab grass from germinating. In the spring months, we strongly recommend using weed control for sowing. A full season of the lawn care program will get the weeds under control before planning an autumn seed. The more weeds are under control, the easier the seeds will germinate and grow.
Spring start – autumn seeds
After sowing is completed in autumn, it is important to follow the recommendations for the care of the newly sown lawn. The faster the seed germinates and begins to grow; the better the lawn will be next year. The following year, TurfGator recommends continuing the lawn care program starting with the pre-emergence barrier during the spring application. Without sufficiently mature grass, this barrier can only fall off the second time the lawn is used, which may result in more crab grass germinating than if this barrier had dropped the first time the lawn was used.
Spring start – spring sowing
While spring is a good time to sow, be aware that there will be a weed fight all year round. With spring sowing, weeds can only be controlled in early summer. Our commercial weed control products disturb the new grass seedlings and prevent the seeds from germinating. Once the grass is mature enough, our post-emergence weed control sprays can be used to control the weeds.
First of all, we recommend ventilation and sowing in autumn this year. We are not so concerned with the weeds that remain from summer, like crab grass, milkweed and nutsedge, because they are about to relieve stress and die from cool autumn temperatures. These weeds are annual weeds, which means that just because they grew there this year does not mean that they will automatically grow there next year.
Even if your house is a new building, the compacted bare dirt is a breeding ground for these summer weeds. The existing or emerging weeds in autumn only last a while before the winter temperatures also stress them. When our technicians place an aerator on the lawn, they puncture and tear up the weeds, which also causes them to be stressed and killed. All "skeletons" left over from dead weeds should be left where they are, as they act as a natural thatch and help protect your seed and new seedlings.
Our technicians will leave you a maintenance sheet for the care of your newly sown lawn. We recommend that you follow this leaf as closely as possible to achieve the best germination this year, rather than the seeds germinating next year.
Fall start – the following year
The following year, weeds are better controlled throughout the year through the full 7-application lawn care program for fertilizer and weed control. For the first lawn application (March to early April), we will apply a pre-emergence barrier that prevents crab grass and other grassy weeds from germinating. The sooner we can get this down, the better; This is why it is so important that you follow our Seeding Care Sheet so that the grass germinates this year and not the next. If the grass is not mature enough the first time we use it, we have to wait until the second application (April to early June) to apply the pre-emergence or weed spray. If the barrier does not drop before emergence before the crab grass begins to germinate, some may burst and grow inside the lawn, which is more difficult to treat than prevent.
Seed, treat, repeat
Regardless of when the first sowing was carried out, we recommend aerating and sowing again the following autumn in order to thicken the lawn even more and breathe new life into it. This also helps fill in bald or thin areas in the lawn where weeds have died. The thicker the lawn, the less weed there is.
We recommend that you follow the lawn care program in the coming years to continue to control weeds and fertilize the lawn. We then recommend inspecting the lawn during the summer months to determine if the lawn needs to be aerated and littered again in the fall. At this point, it may not be necessary to have all of the thin and bare patches filled in fairly well, but it would still be of great benefit to the lawn to introduce new life and continue the thickening process. Once the lawn is well laid out, we recommend aerating every year to keep the soil loose, and strongly recommend sowing every year or at least every two years to build or maintain thickness.
The processes described above should give you the results you want with care and patience over time. The TurfGator owner actually went through the same process for his own lawn, for the lawns of his neighbors and several other customers. Each of these processes took an average of 3 years to achieve a complete reversal.
Unfortunately, there is no sowing method that gives the lawn a unique appearance. Sowing is more of a process than a one-off result. Unless you are willing to pay the money for turf and planting a new turf from scratch is a process no matter which method is used.
The lawn can be sown at any time, but it is strongly recommended that you sow in the autumn. Timing is all you need to control weed and sow. These recommendations apply to both new lawns and the reseeding of established lawns.
It is always a good idea to contact a lawn care professional and ask questions. Take a look around, ask friends or family, and research the Better Business Bureau for a company you can trust.