If you read about worm baskets, you are probably already convinced of the advantages of making your own compost. There are so many good reasons to compost your food waste, from reducing the amount of garbage that goes to landfill sites, to the savings you can make by growing your own food and feeding it with your own kitchen waste.

If you're a little squeamish, it can be comforting to know that worm containers don't smell bad, that composting worms are very easy to maintain (so low maintenance!) And that you can keep your worm indoors if you don't attract them. I don't have one Access to a yard or garden.

Are you wondering if it's worth living alone? In any case. You can buy a closed worm container with two or three trays that fits in your kitchen and turns your food waste into a worm tea that lets your herbs grow like crazy on the windowsill.

What if you have a big family? Well, your leftovers could be turned into fertilizers for meals later in the year. The best thing is that vermicomposting can be done all year round.

Are you afraid that it will be complicated? After all, you are dealing with real beings here. In addition, there seems to be a large selection of worm baskets. Fortunately, most of them include detailed instructions not only for initial assembly and setup, but also for easy, healthy maintenance.

To make your selection easier, we reviewed the bestsellers and top-rated containers, checked the price-performance ratio of each container, and determined whether the containers were brought together with gardening professionals.

In a hurry? Here are our top tips

Best Worm Bins buying guide

Plan your worm population

Before buying, it may be useful to spend a few days weighing the leftover food that gets into the worm container every day. Garden experts suggest that red wrigglers, for example, can consume half of their body weight in scrap every day. In other words, you need to throw a good half pound of trash in the trash can every day to make a pound of worms happy.

Estimating your optimal worm population based on the likely size of your food supply is a less stressful way to calculate how many pounds of worms you are likely to need. You can calculate your worm population by estimating one pound of worms (about a thousand) per square foot of surface. However, this does not take into account the pleasing tendency of red wrigglers to multiply quickly in good feeding conditions. Buying more worms is always easier than trying to solve an overpopulation problem.

Know where you want to put the container

If you live in a particularly cold or hot climate, you will need to do some prep work to make room for the worm container you have chosen. Because they don't smell (contrary to popular belief), many of them are compact enough to live in a kitchen, maybe even in a closet. If that's not possible, you'll need to figure out how to shade or keep in the sun depending on your location. Other factors to consider are whether it will be accessible to curious animals like squirrels or cats. Enclosed gardens are safer for worms than common courtyards, for example.

Decide on your comfort zone

Decide how much time you want to spend on vermicomposting in detail, and then invest accordingly. The more expensive kits usually include the most extensive training packages. The advantage of this is that you have more expertise to improvise a homemade worming when your first container is so successful that you end up needing an overflow home.

Best Worm Containers FAQs

Do I need to buy compost activator or rock minerals if they are not provided?

It is certainly not mandatory. You can put a handful of commercial compost or just soil between the bedding and leftover food to get your worm factory up and running.

The bioactivators supplied with commercial compost contain all the microorganisms you need to support the composting process. Of course, your worms do most of the work by eliminating the nutrient-rich castings.

What food waste can I not put in the worm container?

Waste products you should avoid are: spicy, citrus or allium foods (uncooked onions, leek garlic, etc.); Meat or dairy products because the fat content attracts other insects; Wood fibers that are difficult to digest or processed excessively. Avoid using chlorinated or heavy metal water to hydrate your worms.

Finally, make sure your worms get a good selection of waste. Although they are not fussy creatures, they cannot live on grapes or carrots better than we humans.

Does one of these packages contain worms?

No, you have to buy them separately. Check out Uncle Jim's worm farm as a reliable retailer of red wrigglers in quantities of 250, 500 (half a pound), 1000 or 2000 worms. Homegrownworms.com also has good reviews for reliability and price.

Why don't these trash cans come with worms?

Because you need to be able to bring them straight to their living space as soon as they arrive. You cannot do this if you first have to put up your trash can. The less time these worms spend in their package after transit, the better they will settle in their new environment.

Is there any way to speed up the vermicomposting process?

Depending on the size of your worm bin, it can take between three and six months to be ready to harvest the compost from the bottom layer up.

While you can't really speed up the worms (strangely, they're insensitive to instructions), you can:

  • Carefully turn the tray compost around once a week (with a fork).
  • Make sure that the soil layers are adequately oxygenated and feel slightly damp.
  • Cut the menu items into small pieces. While the worms can dive upside down towards a tea bag that is eighty times larger than its head (think of toddlers and ice cream cones by the sea), eating them is easier if the food is cut smaller.
  • Avoid overloading the container with scrap, perhaps aiming for a little less than half the volume of the feed for the volume of the worms. If the worms with the top layer of food are making good progress, be sure to replenish them with more supplies.